The early morning pace was even slower than usual to assure that we were warming up slowly and getting used to the increasingly higher altitudes. Ahead we could see a hundred tiny white lights progressing up the steep incline of groups that chose the midnight starting option. After an hour Lousie, Kim, Al and I went ahead with Richard and Frank. Guy and the rest of the guides followed at a slightly slower pace though always in sight.
Sunrise on the face of Kilimanjaro was the most spectacular image I have every experienced. Since we were hiking above the clouds you could see the warm salmon and pink colors of pre-dawn rise behind the clouds revealing the curvature of the earth. Mawenzi Peak rose above the clouds to the east. As dawn approached the sun shown as a vibrant dark orange ball just below the horizon of clouds. The moment the edge of the sun sliced through the clouds to reveal it's coming brilliance was breathtaking. Second by second the sun eased through the clouds as the orange ball turned to the warm glow and the true start of the day.
The ascent up Kibo is extremely steep and 95 percent covered in scree. Needless to say it provided a challenging walk especially for those not used to that condition. The guides and I showed the others the technique of kicking the toe of your boot to get better footing but it was tiring for some and wears on the spirit taking one step up and sliding down.
By now were we meeting climbers on the way down showing big smiles and words of encouragement. Everyone said it was worth it! David had come to meet us with hot tea and biscuits, yes, even spoiled on the ascent.
Louise was the first in our group to experience altitude sickness. A slight headache and nausea slowed her pace. I wanted to help so badly but know that sometimes when you feel badly too much help is smothering. Richard suggested the rest of us keep moving so David and Frank stayed to help Louise. They were both very caring and I could tell they knew what to do and she was in good hands.
The toughest part of the ascent is the push to Gillman's Point. The trail turns from scree to climbing over rocks at an even steeper pitch. Kim, Al, and I continued on knowing the most physically strenuous part was nearly over. By now we were higher than 17,000 feet and new territory for my body. Continually watching my heart rate monitor and altimeter as we ascended I was relieved to see my heart rate remain steadily low, around 117. Only once did it reach 122. I guess I expected to start feeling the altitude but thankfully all was good!
Reaching Gillman's Point is especially gratifying and rejuvenating. You can see the summit and the path is a welcomed change. The gentle incline that lies ahead is pure adrenaline! There is no doubt we'll make it now. Below, Guy has caught up with Louise and they are progressing well accompanied by Joshua, Nazareth and Frank. Richard provides us Red Bull for energy to summit. I've never had a Red Bull and now I know why! Yuck! Richard says I have to provide an empty can so I force it down, all the while hearing Matt's (my trainer) voice in my head! Sorry, Matt! Al says he is tired but doing well, Kim has a headache and I am feeling great! After a few photos we leave for the summit.
We walk and talk and progress pole pole around the crater rim. The clouds come and go reveling sun and shadows on the glaciers, snowfields, and ice formations surrounding the rim. Photo stops and laughter abound as we progress to Stella Point, the saddle between Gillman's and Uhuru Peak.
We take turns leading the final trek to the peak. Al can see the prize and we tease him as he was the one yesterday saying we did the entire trail as a team and we should finish as a team. Kim and I lock arms with Al and grab Richard and David as we reach Uhuru Peak together about 11 AM.
The flurry of hugs, pictures, laughter, jokes and tears that followed expressed the jubilation of our achievement. Richard took off his shirt, Al let out a "Whoo Hoo" and I did one-legged push ups to memorialize our summit success. I'm proud to say that I was the only one in the group that carried their own pack (even though Joshua said it was too heavy) and felt great at the summit!
The clouds started to roll in again and in what felt like a few moments of celebration we were headed down the mountain with the sweet feeling of overwhelming joy in our hearts. As we start down we spot the rest of the group just minutes from the summit. It's safe to say our entire group summited Mount Kilimanjaro with Joshua reaching his 150th!
The descent along the rim seems a breeze and it starts to snow lightly (just for Louise). Between Stella and Gillman's Point Al asks for a short break which we take. He says his legs are tired but he's ok and we start again. Al tries to go over a large rock which has a walk around option which I redirect him through. He seems to struggle at the next set of rock steps so I tell David to go to him. As I turn around Al collapses. In an instant our summit euphoria is snapped by reality.
Packs fly and we reposition him on his back. Richard has already gone for oxygen which arrives quickly. I try to get him to respond. His breath is labored which makes it difficult to administer the oxygen. Before long he stops breathing and I said, "He needs CPR". The guide that provided the oxygen asked me if I knew how so I decided to take over. The details and events that followed ended in the worse possible result. Al lost his life shortly after summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro at age of 69.
Frank is in charge of getting the rest of us off the mountain as the rest of the crew has to deal with the situation. The descent down the scree seems to take forever as we are shaken and proceed slowly to avoid injury. Along the way we meet the recovery volunteers on their way up. They give us hugs and we thank them "Asante sana!". Frank takes us to Kibo Camp because it is closer while they sort things out. It is a welcomed sight. Another Team Kilimanjaro group takes us in and provides a tent to rest. Their cook, Vincent takes care of us and serves us soup, tea and chabati. It is a long quite wait.
In the meantime, our remaining porters tear down our entire camp at School House and move everything to Kibo. Quite the feat; they tear everything down, pack our things and move it all 1.5 hours on their backs. That is strength and dedication!
Finally Joshua and everyone make it off the mountain with Al. Joshua tries to communicate with Arusha and sort things out. Prosper, another guide from TK comes to get me as I need to make a statement to the Park Ranger. He holds my hand as we walk and says everything will be ok. I struggle to write a recount of the days events as Joshua stays near. After I finish we hug and talk about next steps.
He and the porters need to head down with the body. We have the option of leaving tonight or staying at Kibo with a skeleton crew and early morning departure. It doesn't take us long to opt for staying at Kibo as we are spent. We send Joshua and the porters off with hugs and prayers. As we watch them leave camp we are left to try and sleep with the days events racing in our head.
And that is the story of bittersweet! This blog is dedicated to Alister Cook. I would venture to say he died a happy man as he said " That's the hardest thing I've ever done and I'm ecstatic!". I'll try to learn a proper Queen's wave for you!
Love,
Donna
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Kilo Huts, Rongai Route, Tanzaniaj
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