Sept. 12 - The Descent!

Kibo Camp has been loud throughout the night as many boisterous groups depart for the summit. Richard wakes us at 5 and we hustle to get ready. After a quick stand up breakfast of porridge, tea and eggs we are on our way and eager to move through the morning chill.

Frank leads us down the trail and our previous pole pole pace is a thing of the past. We need to get down to meet the others at the gate and it feels good to walk in full stride. Frank isn't worried about us anymore so he let's Louise and I lag behind to take our last photos of Kili. We make good time and arrive at the first camp, Horombo, within three hours. By this time the rest of our crew has caught up. Taking our last glimpses at the mighty mountain we continue down into the rainforest and the mist.

Godfrey, Richard and Frank talk and joke with each other and us as we continue to descend. This isn't anything like the face of Kibo, just a gentle decline. We ask questions about the new vegetation and are happy we didn't choose this route up through the eery fog, not seeing the peak until the last day of the ascent. We get deeper in the rainforest as we descend and it's magical with new sights and sounds. I especially like the red Kilimanjaro Impatience that Richard points out.

In another three hours we have reached Mandara Camp. Godfrey presents a packed lunch of French toast, hard boiled eggs, apples and oranges; all prepared and ready to eat. It's been awhile since breakfast and no one hesitates to dive in.

Richard comes and says he needs my help. We need to get off the mountain to meet the crew and go to the police station in Moshi. I'm honored that he comes to me and ask what I can do. He says I need to fake an injury and tell the Ranger that I'm unable to walk and need a rescue vehicle. I don't ask any questions as I figure that Joshua has provided him instructions. I grab hold of his arm and limp to the Ranger's Station. After a brief explanation and a signature we hobble back to gather the rest of the group. The road for the emergency vehicles is a little bit of a hike so I continue my dramatic bit until Richard gives me the ok sign. We cover the last bit of trail quickly and wait for our ride.

I don't know why I expected something different when the ambulance pulls up and it's a Toyota Land Cruiser. Frank helps me up and in the vehicle . . . I get to sit in front as I'm the victim. In no time at all, we are at the main gate. In typical Tanzanian style, we have to fleece the ambulance driver with cash for his efforts. I guess the search and rescue fee we paid with our permit didn't quite cover everything.

As usual, the crew has beaten us down and have started to load the bus. We head to Moshi to meet Joshua arriving at Chrisburger, home of Moshi's best burger. The long awaited Kilimanjaro beer tastes great even for a lager! The burger is a welcomed change from trail food and accurately ranked. Of course it might have been enhanced by my second Kilimanjaro or the company as we laugh and share our last group time together. By now it's late in the afternoon and we still need to go to the Police Station.

Joshua, Vincent, Kim and I take the quick drive to the station and I hang back and wait for Joshua's instructions. This is uncharted, uncomfortable territory for me and have no idea what to do nor expect. It's very busy and we stand in hallways as Vincent tracks down and pays the right person. After awhile they lead us to a small room upstairs and ask me to sit. Joshua explains that I am to fill out the form they provide and recount the story of yesterday's events. The form is basic though I find it odd that they ask my religion. While I write, Vincent shows Al's possessions and documents everything including my report with photos. The inspector takes my form and explains to the guys what will happen next. He doesn't look at my recap nor ask me any questions, I'm not even sure he can read it. We try to track down another official but it's now after five and they are gone for the day. I'm happy to be out of there and would never want to be on the other side of that coin.

The rest of the group is waiting at the restaurant so we head to our hotels. It's a long ride and we figure out tips for our crew and write notes of thanks. I'm the first hotel and by now it's 8 PM. Everyone piles off the bus as we present our tips and say our goodbyes. I hug every single one of them; 20 in all. 1 guide, 2 assistant guides, 1 cook, 1 waiter, 1 head porter and 14 additional porters. They all did a fantastic job with a difficult situation and I'm grateful! Since this wasn't the normal end to a trek I tease Joshua and remind him of his promise they would sing for us. Godfrey takes the lead and breaks into song, "Kilimanjaro, Kilimanjaro". Everyone joins in and we sing and dance and clap together. The joy of the climb is coming back and it is a great ending to an amazing experience. With great thanks and memories I bid them all goodbye.

Exhausted I skip dinner at Onsea House, a big sacrifice as the meals are so incredible. I'm exhausted and all I want is a shower and to sleep. The staff at Onsea still wants to feed me and I agree to a beer as they carry my bags to my room. The shower feels heavenly and I swear I lost five pounds of dirt. I climb into bed and enjoy my cold Kilimanjaro. In no time I am asleep and dreaming of our incredible climb, my new friends and our shared experience.

Love,
Donna

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Location:Onsea House, Arusha, Tanzania

Sept. 11 - Reaching the Summit though Bittersweet!

The air was chilly and brisk at 3 AM. David didn't spoil us with our usual tea in the sleeping bag this morning as we were on a tight schedule and he was accompanying us to the summit. Tea and porridge awaited in the dining tent and the familiar words, "eat, eat", "drink, drink" resounded as we stuffed ourselves with fuel. At 4 am sharp we were on our way, five hikers and five guides a little cold but ready to go.

The early morning pace was even slower than usual to assure that we were warming up slowly and getting used to the increasingly higher altitudes. Ahead we could see a hundred tiny white lights progressing up the steep incline of groups that chose the midnight starting option. After an hour Lousie, Kim, Al and I went ahead with Richard and Frank. Guy and the rest of the guides followed at a slightly slower pace though always in sight.

Sunrise on the face of Kilimanjaro was the most spectacular image I have every experienced. Since we were hiking above the clouds you could see the warm salmon and pink colors of pre-dawn rise behind the clouds revealing the curvature of the earth. Mawenzi Peak rose above the clouds to the east. As dawn approached the sun shown as a vibrant dark orange ball just below the horizon of clouds. The moment the edge of the sun sliced through the clouds to reveal it's coming brilliance was breathtaking. Second by second the sun eased through the clouds as the orange ball turned to the warm glow and the true start of the day.

The ascent up Kibo is extremely steep and 95 percent covered in scree. Needless to say it provided a challenging walk especially for those not used to that condition. The guides and I showed the others the technique of kicking the toe of your boot to get better footing but it was tiring for some and wears on the spirit taking one step up and sliding down.

By now were we meeting climbers on the way down showing big smiles and words of encouragement. Everyone said it was worth it! David had come to meet us with hot tea and biscuits, yes, even spoiled on the ascent.

Louise was the first in our group to experience altitude sickness. A slight headache and nausea slowed her pace. I wanted to help so badly but know that sometimes when you feel badly too much help is smothering. Richard suggested the rest of us keep moving so David and Frank stayed to help Louise. They were both very caring and I could tell they knew what to do and she was in good hands.

The toughest part of the ascent is the push to Gillman's Point. The trail turns from scree to climbing over rocks at an even steeper pitch. Kim, Al, and I continued on knowing the most physically strenuous part was nearly over. By now we were higher than 17,000 feet and new territory for my body. Continually watching my heart rate monitor and altimeter as we ascended I was relieved to see my heart rate remain steadily low, around 117. Only once did it reach 122. I guess I expected to start feeling the altitude but thankfully all was good!

Reaching Gillman's Point is especially gratifying and rejuvenating. You can see the summit and the path is a welcomed change. The gentle incline that lies ahead is pure adrenaline! There is no doubt we'll make it now. Below, Guy has caught up with Louise and they are progressing well accompanied by Joshua, Nazareth and Frank. Richard provides us Red Bull for energy to summit. I've never had a Red Bull and now I know why! Yuck! Richard says I have to provide an empty can so I force it down, all the while hearing Matt's (my trainer) voice in my head! Sorry, Matt! Al says he is tired but doing well, Kim has a headache and I am feeling great! After a few photos we leave for the summit.

We walk and talk and progress pole pole around the crater rim. The clouds come and go reveling sun and shadows on the glaciers, snowfields, and ice formations surrounding the rim. Photo stops and laughter abound as we progress to Stella Point, the saddle between Gillman's and Uhuru Peak.

We take turns leading the final trek to the peak. Al can see the prize and we tease him as he was the one yesterday saying we did the entire trail as a team and we should finish as a team. Kim and I lock arms with Al and grab Richard and David as we reach Uhuru Peak together about 11 AM.

The flurry of hugs, pictures, laughter, jokes and tears that followed expressed the jubilation of our achievement. Richard took off his shirt, Al let out a "Whoo Hoo" and I did one-legged push ups to memorialize our summit success. I'm proud to say that I was the only one in the group that carried their own pack (even though Joshua said it was too heavy) and felt great at the summit!

The clouds started to roll in again and in what felt like a few moments of celebration we were headed down the mountain with the sweet feeling of overwhelming joy in our hearts. As we start down we spot the rest of the group just minutes from the summit. It's safe to say our entire group summited Mount Kilimanjaro with Joshua reaching his 150th!

The descent along the rim seems a breeze and it starts to snow lightly (just for Louise). Between Stella and Gillman's Point Al asks for a short break which we take. He says his legs are tired but he's ok and we start again. Al tries to go over a large rock which has a walk around option which I redirect him through. He seems to struggle at the next set of rock steps so I tell David to go to him. As I turn around Al collapses. In an instant our summit euphoria is snapped by reality.

Packs fly and we reposition him on his back. Richard has already gone for oxygen which arrives quickly. I try to get him to respond. His breath is labored which makes it difficult to administer the oxygen. Before long he stops breathing and I said, "He needs CPR". The guide that provided the oxygen asked me if I knew how so I decided to take over. The details and events that followed ended in the worse possible result. Al lost his life shortly after summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro at age of 69.

Frank is in charge of getting the rest of us off the mountain as the rest of the crew has to deal with the situation. The descent down the scree seems to take forever as we are shaken and proceed slowly to avoid injury. Along the way we meet the recovery volunteers on their way up. They give us hugs and we thank them "Asante sana!". Frank takes us to Kibo Camp because it is closer while they sort things out. It is a welcomed sight. Another Team Kilimanjaro group takes us in and provides a tent to rest. Their cook, Vincent takes care of us and serves us soup, tea and chabati. It is a long quite wait.

In the meantime, our remaining porters tear down our entire camp at School House and move everything to Kibo. Quite the feat; they tear everything down, pack our things and move it all 1.5 hours on their backs. That is strength and dedication!

Finally Joshua and everyone make it off the mountain with Al. Joshua tries to communicate with Arusha and sort things out. Prosper, another guide from TK comes to get me as I need to make a statement to the Park Ranger. He holds my hand as we walk and says everything will be ok. I struggle to write a recount of the days events as Joshua stays near. After I finish we hug and talk about next steps.

He and the porters need to head down with the body. We have the option of leaving tonight or staying at Kibo with a skeleton crew and early morning departure. It doesn't take us long to opt for staying at Kibo as we are spent. We send Joshua and the porters off with hugs and prayers. As we watch them leave camp we are left to try and sleep with the days events racing in our head.

And that is the story of bittersweet! This blog is dedicated to Alister Cook. I would venture to say he died a happy man as he said " That's the hardest thing I've ever done and I'm ecstatic!". I'll try to learn a proper Queen's wave for you!

Love,
Donna


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Location:Kilo Huts, Rongai Route, Tanzaniaj

Sept. 10 - Crossing the Saddle

The morning started as usual with a a cheery wake up from David and hot tea. Early on the trail we had spectacular views of both peaks. Since we were going our standard pole pole pace there was a lot of time spent taking photos both directions.

The majority of the saddle between Mawenzi and Kilimanjaro is dry and sparse of vegetation. Our luck with the weather has been exceptional as the saddle is usually windy and cold. Today it is calm and somewhat warm so we only have the comity us dust t deal with, a fair trade. In the middle of the saddle sits the remnants of a plane crash from 2009; an illegal photographic safari from Kenya. The parts and pieces provide a welcomed diversion along the route.

Later in the morning we veer off the many trek and head toward Scholll Hut Camp. Another short elevation gain through rocky terrain and we reach camp for a late lunch. School Hut Camp is more rocky with limited flat tent spots than others we've used on the route. Being an experienced guide, Joshua has sent a porter early this morning to get us the best spots. Once again I praise Team Kilimanjaro and renamed them Team Awesome!

After lunch we head out on another short acclimatization climb. The path we took is the same trail we'll take to the summit. It makes the climb seem more real you can sense some anxiety as our goal is so close. Joshua tells us our pace is good and actually faster than what they usually allocate. The group seems pleased though we all are wondering if that is good or bad. The descent is full of excitement as we play and maneuver in the scree to prepare for tomorrow. In no time at all we Are back at camp and preparing for dinner.

As usual we gather in our dining tent and refill our hydration bags forth summit run. Everyone's spirits seem good and light hearted. Our biggest challenge came with dinner. Everyone says that you lose your appetite at altitude and you must force yourself to eat for energy. The pre-summit meal consisted of spaghetti and vegetables in peanut sauce. Keep in mind that the food gets cold very quickly and the peanut butter starts to harden. The joking and laughter surrounding our struggle to eat what we knew was an important meal made the challenge more entertaining.

Flooding dinner the preparation for the summit run was finalized. Layers laid out for quick retrieval and packs ready with everything we needed on the ascent.

Early to bed and early to rise . . . We settled down in our sleeping bags dreaming off the summit so very close and waiting for the 3 AM wake up call.



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Location:School Hut Camp, Rongai Route, Tanzania

Sept. 9 - Change of plans!

Another stunning morning with picture perfect weather. The views of Kili have been spectacular during the entire hike this morning. I just can't get over it's grandeur rising up from the plains. Pretty sure I've taken photo of. It every 15 minutes or so. The clouds float across it like a theater curtain revealing all or partial glimpses. Amazing!

We finished our trek this morning an hour ahead of schedule. Which put us the first in camp. Our crew is the best . . . Always the first to be packed up and on the trail, which means first to camp and the best spots. Today our camp is about 14,000 ft next to a very small high mountain lake. The entire hike today was above the clouds. Something I just couldn't get over. Our tents sit at the base of Mawenzi Peak in a little valley protected from the wind. To the east is a sea of billowy clouds below us. The summit is now hidden behind the ridge and out of view.

The group is doing extremely well. A couple of folks experienced a small headache which disappeared quickly with water and Ibuprofen. Our guides are really pleased with our pace and reaction to the altitude. This afternoon we did our acclimatization hike higher on Mawenzi. Spirits and ability of the group carried us to 15,995, higher than the guides had planned. The best part was skiing down on the scree. Always a kick for me but the first time for the rest of the group. Al (70) said it was exhilarating!

This evening the Assistant Guides, Frank and Richard, shared the stories of how they became guides. They both are living their dreams.

The end of the night brought us an option. The guides agreed that we are all doing excellent with the change in altitude. For that reason they presented us with an option to start the summit run a day early. This option allows us to get more rest, climb more of approach in the warmer hours, spend longer on top, if we're feeling well to see the glacier & crater, the have a short descent to the same camp.

Everyone agreed and are taking their advice. So only one more camp before we head to the summit!

Today would have been Dad's 93 birthday. . . Guess I couldn't get much closer to him than above the clouds!

Love,
Donna


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Location:Mawenzi Tarn Huts, Rongai Route, Tanzania

Sept. 8 - And the hiking is on!

The first view of Mawenzi

First peek of Kilimajaro

Me & Kilimanjaro

Richard, Joshua, Frank - Guy, Kim, Louise, Donna, Al

We awoke this morning to the pleasant sound of David's voice asking if he could come in. Three minutes later he is serving us hot tea with sugar in our sleeping bags. How spoiled is that?

Once we rousted ourselves out of the tent we were greeted by a crystal clear blue sky, very Colorado like. A warm satisfying breakfast provided fuel for our first long day of hiking. As we stepped on the trail our destination for the day sat right in front of us, Mawenzi Peak. Unlike Kili, Mawenzi is jagged and rugged looking.

The highlight of the day came just minutes on the trail with a full view of Kilimanjaro. So majestic and magical rising from the brush. It looked like we could touch it. That simple view provided a surge of energy in the group. Frank kept us in check by setting a "pole pole" pace, the key to success. Just as quickly as the mountain appeared it was taken away by the famous clouds, a typical weather pattern.

The group kept a good steady pace and enjoyed lunch at Second Cave once again bathed in sunshine. As our hike continued through the brush the clouds came and went though the weather remained warm and comfortable. Along the route we stopped off to visit other caves and take advantage of photo ops. All in all the day was extremely enjoyable as we hiked together and shared good conversation and poking fun.

As we arrived at camp today we could see the clouds below us like you reached heaven. I can honestly say I've never experienced that and the feeling is one of true joy and accomplishment. Though this camp sits at 11.780 ft., lower that I've been training back home it has an amazing feel. As the sun went down tonight, Kilimanjaro sat clear as a bell to the west, Mawenzi sat the the south, the clouds sat below us to east and the trail we'd just completed lie to the north.

It feels like a strong team . . . Fun hikers, great guides and 5 crew members for each person. Team Kilimanjaro does everything they can to ensure success and we are well on our way!

Cheers,
Donna


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Location:Kikelewa Camp, Rongai Route, Tanzania

Sept. 7 - First day on the Mountain . . . Kinda

Al, Kim, Louise, Me & Guy - Lunch at the Northern Gate

Black & White Colobus Monkey on the trail

Well, our first day on the mountain proved to be not much of adventure. At least not a physical one.

The transfer to the starting point of the Rongai route is quite a drive from Arusha. We spent about four hours in transfer by bus through a variety of local villages. My favorite was a higher Mountain village on market day. Women in brightly colored wraps carried huge bunches of green bananas on their head while they continued they're daily shopping. Amazing and beautifully vibrant as they bargained for their wears.

Our hiking group is comprised of five; three women and two men. Guy and Al (Alister) hale from the U.K.. Louise is from down under and Kim lives near San Francisco. Our pace was strong and we all seem to be fairly compatible on the trail. The test comes tomorrow as the terrain steepens and the day's hike is long.

We've bonded as a group very quickly and have enjoyed a lot of banter and joking. All indications are of a great start! Great food, good guides and an easy short day. Joshua leads the team with Frank & Richard as Assistant Guides. Godfrey prepares the meals while David serves us. We are full, happy and well hydrated.

Our entertainment has been learning new Swahili phrases. Mlo mwema and lala salama! (Bon appetite & sleep well!)

Love,
Donna


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Location:Sima Camp, Rongai Route, Tanzania

Rest Day

Onsea House Terrace

I honestly can't remember that last day I sat around and did nothing. Read a book, got a massage, sat in the jacuzzi, took a nap, and did some beading. Not sure I could get used to this and it's a welcomed change from sitting in a stuffy plane seat ergonomically designed to fit absolutely no one!

All the advice I received said to rest, eat well and drink lots of water. Taking that to heart I am pretty sure my lungs are floating. There is no doubt I will be well hydrated for the climb!

My place of respite is the Onsea Hotel. An adorable family-run B&B that was started by a Belgian chef and his cousin. Needless to say the food has been exceptional. Axel, the owner-chef, joined me for dinner this evening. . . actually I should say he entertained me for dinner. Interesting conversation and stories about his over arching views of the US and his guests. Lots of laughter! It's evident he does this to bring joy and smiles to others.

One of the things that amazes me here and would drive us crazy is the availability of services. After breakfast I asked if I could get a massage . . . the answer of course was yes. 40 minutes later Agnes arrived by bus hauling her supplies. How many of us could sit around waiting for a phone call for your livelihood? My new friend and I chatted while she rubbed cooking oil all over my body. Greasy and felt so good The best part was the ambiance. The table was placed outside on the upper terrace overlooking the Nasami Hills and valley. Seemed like 100 birds chirped away as Agnes assured me I would make the summit -100 percent! As a further insurance that I stay relaxed, Joel drew me an outdoor Jacuzzi with avocado oil. Let's just say there was no chance of my cares not slipping away!

Joshua, our guide with Team Kilimanjaro, arrived to check out my gear and provide a few details for tomorrow. And with that I am good to go!

As I sit on the terrace drinking a cup of hot tea I'm thankful that I chose the Onsea, which already feels like home. The anxious feeling has been replaced with comfort and confidence. I suppose a good night's rest is the only thing that lies between me and the mountain now!

Love,
Donna
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Location:Onsea House, Arusha, Tanzania